The Dortmunder style was initially brewed in Dortmund (!!!), Germany, for the city’s coal miners. With the popularity of Pilsner, the once darker Dortmunder gave way to a paler sample.
The pour is a very rocky, sudsy head which soon dips down to the surface, even in this kolsch glass which often puffs up the foam. The color is straw with just a touch of deep gold , like a summer morning. The clarity is beyond excellent, like a pilsner, but not quite as pale.
Steady carbonation is uneven, both larger globules and fine, widely-spaced pearls from the inside out.
The nose is very malty, even sweet like cotton candy and burnt honey. Some faint powdery citrus notes – like Tang or powdered Gatorade – come through just slightly and hopefully hold some hop pop.
The mouthfeel is good, and the first sip gives a softer malt presence than initially considered. However, it is certainly not absent and rides smoothly over the tongue with a mixture of soft vanilla and hard water. There is a taste of mineral water to the brew, very much like a crisp pilsner, but with slightly more malt body.
The finish is all tangy hops, with overtones of pepper and spices like rosemary and parsley. It is a very nice crisp finish to a beer that is surprisingly full-bodied. I wouldn’t say it is necessarily complex, but it is not uninteresting. Certainly, this is a quaffable beer that you can enjoy a few of. It may just be the Welsh in me, but I really like this beer and you don’t need to have gutted it out in a coalmine to enjoy it.