Schmaltz Brewing Co.
Saratoga Springs, NY
Coney Island Albino Python
Schmaltz makes great beer, and they’re not afraid to do something a little wild and out of the ordinary that may be looked at as off-putting or gimmicky (see Freaktoberfest).
At the pour, this beer is active with a sparkling pure white head that is fine and fizzing. A real white lager, this beer is bottle conditioned and a good deal of yeast is still in the bottle. Stir it up and pour it in – it gives the marigold beer a fine luster with tangerine highlights at its denser portions. The clarity is low, but there’s enough visibility to see the pinpoint pearl strands fly around the glass, knocking the leftover sediment around with it.
A fine coating of lace is already coating the side of the glass as the teeming head begins to deflate slowly. The nose is peppery and a bit sour – overripe clementine peels and a bit of wet dog.
The mouthfeel is a good and the extra fine carbonation doesn’t take away from it. Pepper, fennel seed, and coriander emerge subtly and without heat from behind a crisp crackery base. A touch of that clementine aroma accompanies the spices, rounding out the swallow with just a drop of vanilla creaminess.
It’s not as big and bold as a lot of Schmaltz’s brews, but it’s an unfairly drinkable 6% white lager offering some zigzagging complexities that are fun to try to pick out.